Essi Avellan: Medium-deep lemon with blushing hues. Sweaty nose of floral and waxy characters. Unappetizing. Full, weighty, calm, winey palate missing energy. 12

Andrew Jefford: Pale old gold with a steady, fine mousse. This aroma won’t please the purists much, but I rather like its white-Hermitage-like mayflower and hawthorn, and its summer straw. Very similar on the palate: This is what all St-Peray would be if it could. By which I mean no insult: a lovely, articulate, ripe, full, aromatically allusive Champagne that suggests not the orchard but the wildflower meadow and the mountain upland. I’d love to drink this. 16.5

Tom Stevenson: I’m probably going to be the odd one out on this, because I find it very undefined, with a “furry” aftertaste that clings to the back of my throat. 12