Andrew Jefford: Very full colored and faintly sedimentatious. Okay: a wine of method, in truth, more than a wine of place. This has had lots of oxygen and smells and tastes of that; like an artisanal Montilla. Solera, I’d say, or a similar game? Perhaps it makes sense on the SA scene as a talking point and something different for the restaurants to put on the list, but if it comes from a complex blend of old vines planted on propitious sites, I think it’s a bit of a waste—all you smell and taste in the end is the method. The varieties and the place are eclipsed by the method. Did we need to use these fine old vines for this? Would some other vines not have done just as well? But I can imagine it working well with certain foods, and it is clean, poised, and intriguing: a successful left-of-field effort. 87

Andreas Larsson: Very intense and full of character; there’s a hint of Sherry and flor—quite complex, with that nuttiness and mineral character. Classically bone-dry with a mouthwatering freshness, fine intensity and length, resembling a rather mature Fino. Certainly complex and rewarding if one likes the style. 89

Jancis Robinson: Dark golden copper. Very interesting! A sort of vin jaune style. Really tangy flor aromas. Not quite enough tension on the palate but a very interesting new development. Apple skins. Real tang and enough fruit in the middle here. Quite as good as the Jura norm. Well done! Drink 2014–19. 89