Nicolas Belfrage: Quite deep with a crimson edge. Potent aroma of fruit and raisin; hints of dark chocolate. Some aggression on the palate, of firm acidity and muscular tannin, un po’ slegato now but with the possibility of becoming a fine bottle. Drink from 2016. 17

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to tawny rim. A little closed on the nose, with small oak, complex, spicy black-fruit nose, with prunes and rosewater and herbal character. Full body, with fierce tannins, well balanced by the clean fruit yet a touch bitter on the finish. A very young Barolo that needs a decade to show at its best. 16.5

Andrew Jefford: Dense, dark black-red in color. Quiet, almost muted scents: a somnolent compost of flowers and leaves. Some oak, somewhere at the back? Very classy, in sum; and it opens well with time in the glass. Then pow! On the palate, a concentrated wine, not in terms of texture— indeed, it’s relatively silken within the context of this tasting—but in terms of rosebud-tight fruit concentration. Leave it on the tongue for 30 seconds, and it slowly unfolds: redcurrant, blackcurrant, grapefruit, sloe. Hard to mark at this stage, since the wine is some way from full articulacy, but fine potential. Stylistically it is one of the tenors of the flight; there is nothing notably “fat” here at all. For my palate, indeed, it’s almost challengingly austere, but there’s no denying its quality. 17