Tim Atkin: Super-concentrated color. Nose ditto. Essence of wine. Big, oaky, clumsy, dry tannins, Porty. Hard to drink. Tannic, dry finish. 9

Alex Hunt: Inky, black-fruit aromas, verging on tarry, with some smart oak in the background. The palate is overextracted, however, leaving tannin on the teeth after the fruit has faded. 12

Anthony Rose: Very vivid, dense, youthful ruby. Lots of sweet vanilla and chocolate on the nose, richly concentrated dark-berry and blackberry fruit, with quite hefty extraction and alcohol. A wine whose astringent and chewy tannins leave the palate a tad dry and in need of food to absorb that level of chunkiness and extraction. 13.5