Michael Edwards: Lovely, expressive, ripe, and powerful ’95 —as it should be. 18

Andrew Jefford: Full gold, with a very soft and evanescent mousse now. Aromatically a little tired and cardboardy. Very plump and seemingly richly dosed on the palate. I’m beginning to get the sense that if you want blanc de blancs to age well, you need to be very parsimonious with the liqueur d’expédition. Fully evolved, harmonious, but rather candied. 12.5

Tom Stevenson: Beautiful coffee-toasty fruit, supported by crisp acids and a fine, pincushion mousse. 18.5