Essi Avellan: Deep golden. Evolved, rather mature nose in full bloom. Sweet apricot and fig notes lined with delicious pastry, ginger, and toffee-apple aromatics. Slightly lifted. Sweet, succulent palate, which is already mellow and peaceful. Wide and fleshy, with plenty of fruit and nicely integrated crisp acidity. Long, opulent finish, with licorice and dried-fruit notes. 17.5

Simon Field: Gentle gold color and an equally gentle nose: primary on the brink of secondary; still youthful after all these years. The palate is more evolved, with hints of mushroom and vanillin underlining age. The ensemble wears its age without too much artificial embellishment. 15.5

Tom Stevenson: Medium-deep lemon color; some green, leafy vegetal aromas on the nose and chunky fruit on the palate. Really quite rich and tasty, but it could do with a little more finesse in the presentation of that fruit. 16 (6 months post disgorgement, tasted 2014; 12%; 6.5g/l dosage; 30mg/l total SO2)