Essi Avellan: Very deep golden. Mature, mellow nose, with evolved, singular fruit profile. Appley, spicy, with a brandy-barrel whiff to it. Full, round, weighty palate, where the acidity is not accentuated. Bold and ripe style, beautifully balanced, even if not very complex at this stage. 16.5

Simon Field: Modest color and a nose of elderflower and baking spice; honest and quite concentrated. The palate is powdery, a little peppery and dusty; purity is an engagingly relative absolute, and this wine is so near and yet so far from its apogee. 15

Tom Stevenson: Medium lemon color. Chunky, with a puckering texture that needs more finesse. Some oxidative notes appear on warming. 14.5 (5 months post disgorgement, tasted 2014; 12.5%; 4g/l dosage; 13mg/l total SO2)