Essi Avellan: Bright golden color. Fresh, slightly waxy, peculiar nose, with apple fruit. Surprisingly tame and muted. Fruit is fading on the palate, too, which still has a zesty, crisp character to it. The mousse has a coarseness to it. Short, drying length. Not much capacity left. 16

Simon Field: Golden core, the rim a little watery; a Turner dawn. The nose is a little mute; yellow fruit and hints of hedgerow. On the palate the acidity is still writ large, with hints of exotic fruit, hazelnut, and a nicely shaped finish. After a couple of minutes, it settles down nicely, finely honed and beautifully chiseled. 16.5

Tom Stevenson: Pale lemon plus color, nose a bit broadbrushed, with creamy caramel aromas developing as it warmed in the glass. The fruit on the palate also gained with time in glass, as toast begins to melt into the white fruits. Fine acidity, gentle mousse. 18 (29 months post disgorgement, tasted 2014; 12.5%; 4g/l dosage; 13mg/l total SO2)