Essi Avellan: Deep golden color. Sweet, lifted, botrytized nose, with honey and dried fruit to the fore; clearly aged but not oxidized. A mouth-filling, voluptuous palate that is generally healthy but feels older than 1990. The dosage is heavy-handed and not yet fully integrated. Plenty of exuberant fruit. 17

Simon Field: A deep yellow/gold color is accompanied by a nose of hawthorn and iodine: all very intriguing. The palate takes one a little off course, such is the vestigial sugar, which seems to undermine the subtle intent hitherto rehearsed. Still a little unsettled, methinks. 15.5

Tom Stevenson: A wine that did not speak to me, no seductive whispering in the ear, but nothing upsetting either. Alcohol dominating the aroma now, but a clean and good brut finish, and it did not deteriorate in the glass. 15 (5 months post disgorgement, tasted 2014; 12%; 4g/l dosage; 13mg/l total SO2)