Nicolas Belfrage: Deep, almost opaque. Small black fruits on the nose, with herbal notes and vanilla. A mouthful of sumptuous fruit, backed by firm acids and ripe tannins, makes up for the initial modernity, concentrated and very long, and very impressive of its style, which admittedly will not be to everyone’s taste. But that’s Barolo. 17.5

Bruno Besa: Deep garnet to lively ruby, pink rim. Compact, mature, spicy nose, with small black fruits, forest undergrowth, and hints of cloves. Full body, with sweet, layered black fruit and a compact midpalate. A very young Barolo that should open up nicely in years to come. 17

Andrew Jefford: Dark red; still just opaque. There is surely some new wood here, combining with the black fruits to make a very attractive aroma (though classicists might object). On the palate, the wine is round, approachable, and sonorous, with a tempered but nonetheless palpable tannic presence. Perhaps the oak has, in truth, been a little bit overdone, since it’s hard to pick up the diagnostic Nebbiolo aromatic subtleties anywhere in its sensual statement at present—but time will tell. Nothing second-rate about the raw materials, I should stress. 14.5