Essi Avellan: Pale lemon-green colour. Nose is mild and clean, with hints of subtle white fruit. Muted. Crisp, energetic palate with tension. High acidity, but there is enough fruit to back it. Takes its brut nature rather well, even if the finish is razor-sharp. The energy is its best feature. 15.5

Andrew Jefford: Very pale and a swarm of fine bubbles. Yeast-related scents do most of the aromatic work here, satisfyingly enough. Dry, refined flavors; medium length; balanced and tapered, with some stoniness in the finish. Not hugely characterful, in the final analysis, but a pure and refined Champagne of restraint and elegance. The unsweetened profile shows the “mineral” character off to best effect. 15

Tom Stevenson: The palest wine of the flight, with classic autolytic finesse dominating the nose. Lovely lean structure; classy lean fruit tapering to a beautifully delicate, yet very distinct finish. Although I would drink now for maximum freshness, this would be interesting to keep and open up every three months. 18