Essi Avellan: Pale lemon. Mild, even mute white fruit nose. Fresh and fruity but somehow not together. Withdrawn but, on a positive note, does not show oxidation. 14

Andrew Jefford: Pale lemon-gold but indolent mousse. Powder-puff nose, then a surprisingly aggressive palate. The overall effect is slightly jangling. Drinkable, but more a one-glass Champagne than a whole-bottle version. 12.5

Tom Stevenson: Wow, this is the first, truly complex (highacid, chocolaty), clean-styled, non-oxidative Champagne! 18