Stephen Brook: Closed nose. Rich and creamy on the palate, with a weight more suggestive of the Pfalz. Supple and broad, but with an underlying green-apple character to titillate the palate. Too rich to be elegant, but the fruit is impressive and it doesn’t lack length. 16

Margaret Rand: Mineral, quite sparky, with a long, softly ripe finish. Vivacious, concentrated, and bright. A good mineral finish. 15.5

Jancis Robinson: Rich, smoky, and well on the way to Beerenauslese level. Round and punchy with lots of lemon oil and acidity. Very youthful, with the (considerable) sweetness and acidity still skulking in their separate corners. Wonderfully fresh finish. Drink 2015–25. 18