Stephen Brook: Shy nose, with whispers of citrus, apricot, and apples. Sweet, of course, but also rather soft; lacks zest. It does have acidity but lacks some force and vibrancy. Seems quite forward and accessible; moderate length. 14

Margaret Rand: Pretty good concentration, and a very long, punchy finish. Rich, vigorous, and still quite tight. Very good balance—a very correct wine, rather controlled and very rational. 15

Jancis Robinson: Hot, almost brûlée notes on the nose, and then acidity dominates the palate, but they are not at all integrated yet. Quite astringent on the finish—very youthful indeed. Falls away a bit on the finish. Drink 2012–20. 16.5