Stephen Brook: Muted botrytis nose, peaches, oranges. Sleek, unctuous but not heavy, very concentrated. Racy acidity, plenty of tropical fruit; has tremendous lift and purity. Subdued in its complexity, but that’s no bad thing at this stage. Will develop for decades. Excellent length. 18.5

Margaret Rand: Coffee fruit, raisiny and intense, lots of botrytis—a keeper. Really does need time, and will last for years. Superb wine, with endless fascination and complexity. 18.5

Jancis Robinson: Deep gold with dried-apricot flavors and masses of acidity—slightly reminiscent of Tokaji. Very lively, with exceptional concentration. (I sat up and stopped slouching at this point in the tasting.) Brisk, rigid framework. Very clean finish, and streets ahead of the previous Nahe wines. Unctuous, though, with masses of acidity. Very long. Drink 2015–30. 19