Stephen Brook: Light gold. Rich botrytis nose, stewed peach, raisins, a touch of tar. Plump, creamy, super-rich, but lacks a little zest and lift; just a touch syrupy, depriving it of some finesse. I don’t wish to complain, but there is this missing element. Moderate but not exceptional length. 17

Margaret Rand: Intense and bright fruit, roasted apples and coffee and cream. Elegant, seamless wine; lovely balance and irresistible complexity. Enormous length. 18.5

Jancis Robinson: Deep coppery gold. Very slightly beery/yeasty on the nose, then masses of sugar and currant-bush aromas. Definitely jagged on the palate at the moment. A bit aggressive and tired. Drink 2013–20. 18