Stephen Brook: Barley-sugar nose, oranges, crème brûlée. Medium-bodied and less opulent than the nose suggests; fine piquant acidity; and even a relative dryness for TBA. It lacks a little generosity but has considerable purity instead. There is a slight lack of concentration, too. 16.5

Margaret Rand: Creamy and intense, a touch of earthiness, a touch of smoke and spice. Huge finish—a real peacock’s tail. A wine of great finesse and complexity, all worn impressively, but with a lightness of touch. 19

Jancis Robinson: Strong botrytis notes and very creamy texture, with masses of acidity. Very promising and rich, with great balance, even if just a baby for the moment. Real zest and depth. Very tightly wound. And the persistence and neatness of the finish are pretty impressive too. Drink 2014–30. 19