Stephen Brook: Muted nose, quite honeyed. Rich, broad, supple, but doesn’t have the concentration of a top TBA. The acidity is quite raw, and I don’t find the sensuality of what should be an extreme style. Medium length, and disappointing overall. 14

Jancis Robinson: Heady, nutty, relatively evolved nose. Lighter and less sweet than many but with verve and panache. Even a slightly dry finish(!). An early developer, with a hint of menthol and dried-fruit flavors. Long and refreshing. Drink 2012–22. 18.5

Margaret Rand: Bright and elegant, good concentration, coffee and spice notes. Comparatively light on the palate, but the finish is big and vigorous. Tight at the moment; needs time. 18