Stephen Brook: Medium gold. Muted nose, crème brûlée, barley sugar, marmalade. Very rich, but it seems to sag on the mid-palate. Sweet-and-sour tone; lacks freshness and zest. Seems prematurely advanced. Perhaps a poor bottle. 12

Jancis Robinson: Quite deep greenish-copper color. Burned, rather advanced color and nose. A little sour—the volatile acidity seems pretty high! The fruit seems no longer fresh. I’d drink this sooner rather than later. Astringent finish, though the residual sugar is obviously impressive. Drink 2010–17. 16.5

Margaret Rand: Odd, volatile nose, awkward, volatile palate. Faulty. A shame, because the concentration is good, and so is the balance. 7