Stephen Brook: Medium gold. Splendid nose: peaches, oranges, dates. Oozes botrytis; opulent and seductive. Rich, silky, concentrated, seamless, fine acidity. A fairly discreet style, but none the worse for that. Fresh and elegant, very long and graceful, with a charming candied finish. 19

Margaret Rand: Classic, spicy peach fruit and lush texture. Straight-down-the-line textbook TBA: no quirks of character so far, but excellent balance and concentration. Length is very, very good. 18

Jancis Robinson: Deep gold. Tangy, lifted, botrytized nose. Round and rich and beautifully textured, with an acid level that is just this side of too high. Very zesty, and so rich it should be served in a dropper not glasses. Almost Essencia. Needs many years. Drink 2016–30. 19.5