Alison Buchanan: Very grown-up in appearance and on the nose. Opaque mahogany; olive-tawny rim. Chocolate raisins and caramelized citrus on the nose. These are echoed on a luscious, mouth-coating, silky palate. Unctuous but always fresh, this is exhilarating throughout and on through a languid, protracted but focused finish. Lovely refreshment. 18

Jesús Barquín: Light mahogany. Serious, complex, well structured, integrated alcohol, elegant licorice notes. 16.5

Julian Jeffs: Deep color. Good nose. Shows no complexity and has an unimpressive finish. 13