Simon Field: Rich amber to mahogany, telltale lightly verdant rim. Nose toned but not too volatile, then ethereal flowery notes underpinned by nutmeg and a hint of mandarin. The palate is rich, studiously dry, with refreshing acidity and a purity on the finish. Balanced and eloquently harmonious! 16.5

Richard Mayson: Mid-amber color. Caramel toffees on the nose, with very little varietal character. Nonetheless, clean and high-toned. Quite rich and sweet for a Sercial, with that toffee character showing through, astringent and unbalanced on the finish. Clean but rather course. 10.5

Margaret Rand: Marvelously walnutty nose and palate—as pungent and complex as an old Amontillado. Round, rich wine with a delicate but tensile structure. It doesn’t have a lot of the sour, smoky, preserved-lemons note I associate with old Madeira, except for a nuance on the finish—it is, in the end, much more like a very good Sherry—but it’s a gloriously complex and fascinating wine. 18