Mannie Berk | Verdelhos from the parish of São Martinho have long enjoyed a high reputation; in 1896, the New York Madeira merchant Charles Bellows singled them out from the other Verdelhos on the island for their “wonderful perfume.” João Pereira d'Oliveira was one of the São Martinho growers who produced fine Verdelhos in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. He founded the firm known today as Pereira d’Oliveira, which still possesses some of the Verdelhos he made. Among them is this 1890, which can still be found in barrel in D’Oliveira’s Funchal lodge. The old D’Oliveira Verdelhos stand out not only for their deep color and power, but also because they are all likely to have been born from the same vineyards in São Martinho.

Roy Hersh | Bottled approximately 15–20 years ago from grapes grown in the vineyards of São Martinho. Dark maple optic with a broad golden edge and greenish tinge. A well-defined bouquet reveals mahogany, clove, VA, roasted espresso notes, along with black tea, lemon-zest, and caramel. Lots of descriptors emerged as this continued to morph in glass. Medium weight, loaded with glycerin and richly textured, this Verdelho is propped by racy acidity and delivers a slightly sweet profile. Concentrated flavors of caramelized pecan, citrus, and bitter nut-skin provide complexity throughout its youthful showing. Exuding D’Oliveira typicity, this Verdelho ends with a persistent sweet toffee and lemon custard-infused finish. | 17.5