Simon Field: Darker coloring, a crepescular nose, cloves and unloved furniture. Rich and purposeful in the mouth; traditional, Byronic style. The barrels were given ample time to assert. Densely textured, forthright, and challenging. 16

Richard Mayson: Mid-mahogany color. Lovely high-toned caramelized (maderized) pungent aromas, touch of demerera. Full, rich, and concentrated, with a powerful tawny marmalade tang and a slight caskiness on the finish. Not the finest Verdelho, but an impressive wine with considerable age. 16.5

Margaret Rand: Authentically woodsmoky nose, quite pungent; palate lively and pungent; vibrant, smoky lemons, complete. Demands attention, as Madeira should. Subtle, complex, and very long. An assured, confident, polished wine. 17