Stephen Brook: Very deep red. Oak dominates the nose, though there are some herbaceous tones, too. Less full on the palate than the nose suggests, but this is nonetheless concentrated and fleshy, with good acidity and ripe tannins. Still youthful and brisk, though a touch sweet on the lovely blackcurranty finish. Has panache and length. Coonawarra? 17

Andrew Jefford: Saturated black-red. Lots of open-pored, friendly, blackcurrant-pastille fruit; easy, gentle, fragrant; milk chocolate, touches of spice. Lively, fresh, relatively simple, elegant; piles of acidity as usual. Some tannins. This is another wine rather marshaled into technical rectitude, though the fruit purity is remarkable as so often for both these regions, and you feel that so much more could be achieved with a more fastidious and non-interventionist approach. Coonawarra. 14

Anthony Rose: Intense youthful color, and equally intense dark berry fruits on the nose; very fine berry-fruit concentration, with a seamless palette of cassis and black-cherry fruit flavors; the texture is lovely, really succulent and juicy and full of delightful fruit flavor in which oak, tannin, and acidity are seamlessly integrated. Excellent wine. Margaret River? 17.5