Tim Atkin: Dense, almost opaque color. Masses of oak, but the fruit backs it up. Rich fruitcake notes, sweet oak, good acidity. The epitome of a modern, international-style red. Not really Rioja, but a very impressive bottle of wine. Currant and black fruits and sweet oak. A little over the top, but there is no doubting the quality here. 17

Jesús Barquín: Deep cherry, almost opaque. Like others in this series, a massively concentrated wine, excessive, with opulent, in-your-face fruit, obvious use of new oak, and a little lacking in discretion. Somewhat heavy on the palate, partly due to a level of alcohol for which the acidity cannot compensate. Modern. 14.5

Marcel Orford-Williams: Fabulous. Full flavor, rich, lots of fruit. Decadent, complex, and long. Not exceptional but pretty good. Drink now. Old-style. 16