Tim Atkin: Deep color. Purple-rimmed. Big, blueberry and licorice fruit flavors, lots of oak. Dry, quite extracted finish. High alcohol, super-extracted. Well made, but in a very particular style. Would you really spot this as Rioja? Modern. 15

Jesús Barquín: Medium to deep cherry. Massive and oak-dominated, a tad alcoholic, excessive, though good acidity suggests there may be hope. Modern. 14

Marcel Orford-Williams: Very sweet, sappy. Still tannic. Good middle with some nice sweetness but finishes a little lean and oaky. Short on charm. More old than new in style. 14