Tim Atkin: Youthful, vibrant purple/ruby. Touch of bake and oxidation on the nose. Slightly dry and tannic. Lacks fruit, quite dry. High acid finish. Alcohol dominates the fruit here. Modern. 9

Jesús Barquín: Deep cherry, almost opaque, with a purple rim. Serious tobacco nose, with pleasant fruit delineation. A full palate with outstanding acidity that gives character, and firm but not aggressive tannins. I bet that this is a Graciano-based wine, a style that I love, though I am aware that not everybody shares this preference. Modern. 18

Marcel Orford-Williams: Lovely, burned-sugar nose. Smells like Pomerol a bit. Rich and full-flavored. No real finesse, though. No middle as such and not very long. Pleasant but no more. 14