Tim Atkin: Thick, chewy, Episcopal purple. Dense, lots of color. Firm, chewy, yet extracted. Some VA, a tad confected, Argentinean Malbec in style, super-ripe. Hard to drink. Hard to like. Pruney finish. 8

Jesús Barquín: Deep cherry. Among the final flight, from the 2005 vintage, this number 46 is the one that has impressed me most favorably. An elegant air of blond tobacco and its beautiful acidity make me guess it could be a Graciano-based wine. Balanced structure: acidity, noble tannins, and evident alcohol (the only objectionable aspect), in a wine that has a bright future ahead and that I find truly excellent. Modern. 18

Marcel Orford-Williams: Better than many but still overdone. Rising finish and long, but over-extracted and lacking in charm. Keep another year or two. 15