Tim Atkin: Intense ruby/garnet. Some development, but good core of color. Flat, slightly oxidized. Hint of TCA on the first bottle. Also on the second. Leafy, high in acid, rather raw. The TCA makes it worse, but not a good wine to start with. Skinny and curiously hollow, with no fruit sweetness. Intermediate. 6

Jesús Barquín: Medium to deep ruby, bright rim. After a defective first bottle a second one is opened. Reduced and closed at the beginning, showing merely faint notes of ripe cherry and leather. With some dedicated swirling in the glass the palate opens up to increasingly expressive red fruit, with good structure and length. A serious wine that demands intensive aeration to show its best. Intermediate. 16.5

Marcel Orford-Williams: Dirty, volatile. First bottle oxidized. Second bottle tainted. Shot. 4