Alison Buchanan: Gloriously rich golden–amber, this looks very fine. The nose, lanoline and wet wool, is decadent. The palate is rather too soft, no angles and very rounded – very appealing now but one questions longevity. Well–made. 14.5

Alex Hunt: Deep golden color, and a broad, honeyed nose. There is still some fruit and lift on the palate, however (this is not oxidized, just very mature). Odd, perhaps, but good, complete wine nonetheless. 14

Andrew Jefford: Very full–yellow now. Utterly different to its peers, this has an antique aroma of polish, vellum and attic air. Sui generis. Rich, even sweet–edged. How would you describe it to someone who had never tasted it? Slender, limpid, disarming, intense, eccentric: a Quixotic bottle. 15