Essi Avellan: Pale lemon color. Youthful, perky, toast-and-smoke-lined magnum nose of lemon, pineapple, vanilla, oak, and apple. Some un-fresh ashtray notes, too. Very fresh, high-acid palate. Crisp and energetic, with a sweet, fruity finish. Shame about the aromatics. 89

Simon Field: Pale mealy color, flecked with green, watery at the rim; notes of tobacco, autumn leaves, and soft earth also fleck the imagination; the palate is linear, composed, but a little too angular, a decade on, to overwhelm with pleasure. 87

Anthony Rose: Pale gold in color, there are some bright, nutty, autolytic notes in the aroma, and while it’s already 10 years old, it’s bright and fresh-tasting, perhaps in part because of the magnum, with some juicy-textured, peachy fruit and a lively, tangy mousse of bubbles, initially sweetly ripe, and gradually tapering to a satisfyingly zesty, dry conclusion. 90