Lemon-gold translucence, a silvery patina of reflected glory, the small bubbles jostling for attention, then settling down, persistent yet calm. The nose is powerful, firmly hewn: small red berries, late-season apples, and a whiff of linseed. Youthful, upstanding, taut; Pinot Noir grip, as anticipated, dominant, only the faintest hint of chalk, spice, or citrus peel. Reticence does not equate to failure to engage, however.On the contrary, this is immediately persuasive;someone particularly important has walked into the room and will maintain a grip on the agenda for many years to come. Who might that be?