Nicolas Belfrage: Medium deep. Fairly neutral on the nose, not a lot to say for itself as yet. Similar on the palate, with almost sharp acidity and firm tannins, blackberry, and tar. Fruit fairly evolved but structure dominant at the moment. Drink 2015–25. 15

Andrew Jefford: Deep black-red shading to garnet. Plenty of aroma, but slightly stiff and reedy; a touch of farmyard; a touch of ash. Some might find this classical; perhaps indeed it is, in an old-school sense, but it lacks purity and charm for me. On the palate, too, this is an old-school style of wine, with plenty of brusque tannin and a faintly reedy cast to the flavors. All of that said, it is concentrated and authoritative, from good vineyards and perhaps old vines—there’s a depth there. If the old style appeals, this may be for you. 14.5

Franco Ziliani: Good, intense ruby color. The nose is fresh but simple and not particularly rich or complex. Some floral and earthy notes and cherries; some violet and chocolate. Elegant, medium body, good tannin structure, not aggressive, earthy on the palate, and a good finish and persistence. 15.5