Essi Avellan: Medium-deep peachy color. Lovely toasty nose, with finely integrated gunpowder notes on the top of peach caramel and coffee. Delicious nose. Fresh, zesty, smooth, and lively, with complexity and depth. Highly elegant and skillfully crafted. Nothing accidental in this beautiful wine. 19

Simon Field: Classic color, with a partridge eye looking up at us, then a complex nose that combines ripe red-berry fruit, kitchen-garden spice, and a hint of nougat/marshmallow. The palate captures all of these, but with quite high dosage informing the commercial imperative and slightly undermining the innate complexity. 16

Tom Stevenson: Attractive pale peach color, with tart, rather unyielding fruit at the moment. This should improve, but who buys an unvintaged Champagne rosé to lay down? 15.5