Essi Avellan: Medium-deep peach color. Stylish, fine-tuned nose, with toast complexity, charred notes, and white fruit. Light oxidation and oaky whiffs. Fresh, mouthwatering palate, with a good energy and long, succulent length. 18

Simon Field: Light color and a bizarre bready, sourdough aroma, which hints at oxidation. The palate is much better, with an orchard-fruit character, hints of hazelnut and vanilla, and a touch of mushroom on the finish. Developed and interesting, this is idiosyncratic and most appealing. 17

Tom Stevenson: First bottle slightly oxidized. The second bottle has some oxidative notes, but they are light and well integrated with the fruit. 15.5