Jesús Barquín: Chestnut, with copper hues. The nose is clean and expressive; complex, attractive, wild herbs, candied fruit—a veritable symphony of delicious aromas. The palate offers formidable structure, dry and sharp, honed to a harmonious profile of balanced acidity and alcohol. Long and deep, a textbook Amontillado from Sanlúcar (or at least Manzanilla-based). Magnifi cent. 19

Andrew Jefford: Very clear, limpid mid-walnut. Sweet, almost plush, yet fresh and lifted, too: great harmony and smoothness here. Licorice and the darker spices lurk at the end. I go back to this repeatedly, and its aromatic finesse is unrivaled. On the palate, this is a wine of commanding intensity and depth. Its tenor of flavor is relatively light, saline, and aerial, yet it’s glycerous and long, and it goes on and on and on once it’s on the palate: a long, lyrical tenor aria. Allusions include wild mushroom, toasted hazel, and dried apricots and peaches, yet there is also something agreeably ranker, like cheese rind, to give it tenacity and viscerality. Pounded black spices come lurking about again. Blimey, guv! There’s an awful lot here: very serious wine; lots of age; but well shepherded into bottle. This is one of those Sherries that tiptoes up to the edge of medicine and apothecary power—and, of course, a wonderful blending component, too. 18.5

Richard Mayson: Mid-amber, green tinge; lovely, gentle savory aromas, withatouch of dried fig on the nose, slightly smoky; again, gentle and savory initially on the palate, building to a fine rapier-like finish. Great balance and poise. 18