Jesús Barquín: Light chestnut. The nose lacks the freshness and boldness of others in this tasting, slightly dulled, dominated by nuts and a rancio hint. Same for the palate, a tad hot. In any other context, this would be a perfectly noteworthy wine, but it fails to impress side by side with the giants in this tasting. 15

Andrew Jefford: Pale walnut with orange glints. Not a great aromatic success: composty, farmy, a touch of silage. There is some pure apricot, too, but it’s rather buried in the cavalleria rusticana. On the palate, by contrast, it is clean and dry, with no apparent off-notes, but rather hard and bony and over-rigorous. 11

Richard Mayson: Mid-amber, with a green glint on the rim; distinctly savory, toasty, roasted-almond aromas, singed around the edges; full, soft, and round, easy initially but becomes more challenging in the mouth, with a powerful tang to the finish. 15.5