Jesús Barquín: Light chestnut. Clean and expressive nose, with hints of the fennel and menthol of old Fino with prolonged biological aging. The palate is dry and refreshing, seriously biological and long. Very good Amontillado-Fino. 17

Andrew Jefford: Pale walnut; clear and transparent. Aromatically this is slightly strange; there’s almost a mintiness there, and a parsnippy sweetness, and a leather-strap width. Not unattractive, but not wholly in the classical repertoire. On the palate, this is a smooth, straightforward dry Amontillado without huge concentration; a little mushroom and coffee toward the finish. Okay, but it wouldn’t have me booking the next flight to Jerez. 11.5

Richard Mayson: Mid-amber, with an olive-green glint; full yet pungent withatouch of rancio on the nose, slightly singed around the edges; lovely, full, rich, savory style; toasted almonds, slim and sinewy, with a seemingly salty finish—an apéritif in itself! 17