Essi Avellan: Deep, bright, glossy, deep cherry color. Highly toasty, developed Pinot cherry nose. Velvet-smooth, voluptuous palate, a real crowd-pleaser, with a sweet but balanced dosage. Easy to drink and far from boring, but slightly obvious. 17.5

Simon Field: Deep russet color and an uncompromising old-fashioned nose; the palate is quite rustic, but not without a certain appeal for the cognoscenti. We have requested a second bottle, and this underlines the power of the wine; rich and classically influenced. 15

Tom Stevenson: Soft, easy, with some Pinot Noir fruit putting its head over the parapet. Elegant. Both bottles the same. 17