Essi Avellan: Deep lemon color. Unrefined, overripe, apple nose with oak notes. Simple and not perfectly clean. Sharp, austere palate with earthy oakiness. Very dry but with a soft mousse and good body weight. 14

Simon Field: Persistent bubbles and a nose of oily oak; pears and peach and a rather plump, clumsy mouth-feel. The second bottle is cleaner and with more focus behind the boudoir, so giving the benefit of the doubt, the score reflects this significant improvement. 16.5

Tom Stevenson: The first bottle was dominated by the aroma and flavor of terpenic oak, if there is such a thing (probably not!), and although it had plenty of fruit on the front palate, it dropped away quickly to a short finish. The second bottle was so different that I had to ask for the bottle to be checked. It was softer, fresher, more diffuse, less angular, with far more elegance in the fruit, greater length, impressive even, and a lovely fresh aftertaste. This is when you have to be brave and really mark the wine up significantly. 18