Essi Avellan: Medium-deep lemon. Fresh, appley, with pastry aromatics and controlled oxidation—a character of its own. Less elegant on the palate, with big mousse and loose structure. Rich, opulent, obvious style. 15.5

Simon Field: Classic nose of green apple, verbena, and a hit of Mirabelle plum; the palate is quite phenolic, which makes the finish a little austere and perhaps points the wine toward gastronomic pairings, where the weight will come into its own. 15

Tom Stevenson: fine, delicate, polished yeast-complexed fruit, with a slippery-soft mousse. 17