Essi Avellan: Pale lemony. First bottle slightly oxidized. Soft vanilla, cream, and tropical-fruit nose, with subdued toastiness. Medium-weight and dry, fresh palate. Sharp, lemony acidity. Good but not great. 15.5

Simon Field: Gold and green colors show off the fine bead, complemented by a nose of red apple, cow parsley, and white flowers. The palate is broad but with finely etched acidity and an appreciable linearity, which betrays Chardonnay of considerable pedigree and potential. For me, the second bottle was actually less impressive, although I suspect I am in a minority of one here, vis-à-vis my learned colleagues on the panel… 16

Tom Stevenson: Oxidative, hollow, absolutely no fruit. Cannot believe anybody would—could— deliberately make such a wine, so I have called for a second bottle. Second bottle has an ampleness not found in the first. This is by no means a top wine. The mousse is too explosive, and the fruit, now ample, is just simple, but at least it can have a score that Andrew Jefford defines [in WFW’s 20-point system] as “enjoyable, simple, and straightforward wine.” 12