Michel Bettane and Thierry Desseauve | Strong color, powerful for the year, sappy—but yet again there’s a sense of grapes at the limit of maturity. | 16

Michael Schuster | Fresh mineral and red-fruit nose; elegantly balanced, medium-weight wine, with very supple tannins, an acidity that is fresh but not edgy, a medium depth, delicate ripe-fruit flavor, gentle complexity across the palate, and fine gravelly length. Complete at a lower level and in a quieter register. 2018–26. | 16