Andrew Jefford | Deep black-red in appearance, just off opaque at the core. Honestly, the nose is slightly tired here and stringy: a lack of fresh-fruit lift. The secondary notes (since they are here already) are attractive enough, though: tobacco, compote, leather. The palate is exactly as you’d expect from the nose. This is a very high-altitude site (witness the water-tower next door) so perhaps it was always going to be a struggle to get full ripeness in this vintage. The wine is concentrated and engaging but lacks inner wealth and mellowness. | 88

Michael Schuster | Lovely, black-fruit-ripe nose; a rich, full, concentrated wine, firm in acidity and in tannin; an abundance of sweetly ripe fruit, close-grained and complex within its fairly firm tannic frame. Long and satisfying across the palate, provided you can see beyond the still oak-dry texture. But this will, ideally, need a decade to mellow and harmonize. 2033–45+. | 92