Simon Field | A more lustrous hue than some others, gold relieved from the galleon and carefully polished. Thereafter, a surprisingly delicate aromatic of limes and a gentle green tea; beeswax and soft pear, yeasty and quietly salty. A delicate lift for all that, and a nicely sculpted finish. | 88

Andrew Jefford | Mid-straw gold. This is a fresher rendition of the style within the range of possibilities the appellation leaves open, with a soft sappiness behind the bread, the cream, and the chamomile. Some crushed hazel and a little northern orchard fruit, too. Vivid, rich, and expressive on the palate, with ample tang from the voile but no excessive oxidative notes. It’s very nutty, savory, and full of countryside allusions (dry leaves, warm twigs, some mushroom). The acidity is clean, rousing, and fruit-filled; quince, apple, bitter lemon, golden raisin. By contrast, it is less bready and less umami-rich than some. Very well vinified and “raised” though—a magnificent young Arbois Vin Jaune. | 94

Roy Richards | Bright and pale. Peaty, but only slightly: Lowland whisky. Rich, relative to the other wines in its flight, and quite creamy. | 88