Simon Field | Mature gold, luminous, pale at the rim, a gloriously contradictory nose of yeast, sourdough, and Mirabelle plum. Acidity dominates the palate with a Presbyterian burgh, a ripe apricot subplot and gently oxidative intrigue driving everything before it. Sour at the prow, but no sour grapes here. | 87

Andrew Jefford | Bright pale to mid-straw gold. Forthcoming aromas, and the usual complex array of Vin Jaune allusions: chamomile, straw, cheese rind, autumn fruits, smoke, umami. Rich and tangy, withatouch of caramel; not notably “fresh” though, supposing that might form part of the expectation repertoire for this wine style. (I’m open-minded on this.) An intricate and expressive Arbois. On the palate, it is softly and roundly acidic, and the umami is once again evident from the off—indeed, there is a seaweedy note that wasn’t apparent on the aromas. It is full, soft throughout, glycerous, and nutty to finish: articulate, detaining, and satisfying. Does the acidity bring freshness? Not necessarily, since it is not that sort of crisp-edged, primary acidity. The acidity is, though, fundamental to the wine’s balance and clearly dominant here. | 91

Roy Richards | Deep gold, the deepest of the six. Bread dough, brioche even. Second nose more rustic. The palate has high acidity and a certain roughness. Full-bodied. | 86