Andrew Jefford: A very pale wine by comparison with most of the Sancerre cohort in this tasting, though the pale red holds; there’s no hint of brick as yet. Dry and grassy in scent: the old style of red Sancerre, but some will like. Lively, graceful, fresh, poised, and balletic, and in its own way (pace the grassiness) full of delicious ripeness—the ripeness of 2014, rather than the ripeness of 2015 or 2018. I have to say that it is very well done for its vintage and by the lights of its own star. Very, very Sancerre and I wouldn’t keep for a lot longer, but a fascinating reference for our tasting. I’m not a fan of herbaceousness, and this is herbaceous, yet it is also graceful, somehow “ripe” (full hang-time), and delicious. | 89

Jasper Morris: A pale color. I enjoy the light, slightly underripe bouquet, which nonetheless offers an attractive, smoky, crushed strawberry aroma. This will not suit everybody and needs drinking relatively soon, but is certainly still offering pleasure in its particular style. Oddly enough, there is more fruit here than in some of the more overtly powerful, more extracted wines. I am glad it is in the tasting. | 88

Catherine Petrie: Distinctly pale garnet, with a red-brick rim. Aromas of stewed, underripe red berries are not wholly surprising given the cool nature of the 2014 vintage. Light-weight fruit and meagre tannins on the palate are overshadowed by a tart acidity. There is a leanness and austerity here that may have niche admirers, but this is far from a crowd-pleaser. | 82