Bruno Besa | Straw to golden. Rich, mature, complex, yellow-fruit and citrus nose, with lemon curd, jasmine, passion fruit, and fresh herbs. Slightly overripe on the palate, with clean fruit yet a slightly simplistic finish. | 87

Andrew Jefford | A full light-gold; a much more developed color than for most of its peers. The aromatics are clearly of a different tenor, too: cream, grain, and wild flower rather than the usual taut, early-summer orchard fruits. Attractive in its difference, though only modestly articulate. Very developed on the palate, too, and I can’t honestly say it merits a high score, but in such an ocean of reductiveness and dilution, the fullness and lushness of this is a kind of balm. | 87

Michael Palij | Richly aromatic, with lovely yeasty notes of pastry and dough allied to a Burgundian, oxidative note suggesting barrel-maturation. The palate is less impressive, with the soft acidity robbing this wine of necessary structure. It’s a delicious glass today but it needs drinking. | 87