Sarah Marsh MW compares the maturity and merits of 2008 and 2013 red Burgundy.
There is a point at which Burgundy reaches its full potential. I feel this is when a wine shows complex woodland aromas and a shimmery transparency to the terroir on the palate while carrying a distinctive echo of the fruit and vivacity of its youth. The maturity of middle age. I don’t like dusty old wine. Burgundy, like any other wine, has a sell-by date, so it pays to keep an eye on the premier and grand cru in your cellar, not least as years seem to pass so quickly. Nobody should expect even the finest village-level Burgundy to be at their best after ten years. They are better with youthful fruit. It is telling that David Duband, who kindly opened numerous 2008s and 2013s from village to grand cru for me to try, no longer keeps a library of village wines.
I took the opportunity to assess the status of 2008 and 2013 red Burgundy, mainly from the Côte de Nuits, on my visit to taste the 2024s in October. A request to taste 2008 raised an eyebrow or two, but I was curious—if apprehensive—on the premise that all three seasons were beset with rain and rot. However there are differences. 2008 was a properly cold vintage while 2024 was cloudy, rather than cold. 2008 was to some extent saved by a dehydrating wind and some sunshine in September, but the result was more successful for whites which were appealing in a lactic way. By contrast 2013, after flooding in spring, enjoyed a classic Burgundian summer—one typical for the time—of mixed sun and rain which continued through September. Producers waited for the crop to ripen and harvest began in October. It’s never been so late since.
2008: Lean and lacking charm
So much for the seasons, how about the wine? The best 2008 Côte de Nuits reds—when attentive leaf plucking, stringent sorting, and careful extraction were exercised—were lively, slim-bodied, and streamlined with a spicy tannic twang when I tasted them from barrel. However, unripe phenolics were an issue for most 2008s. Green tannin was accentuated by high acidity without the sweetness of fruit to offset it and things have not improved with age. Today the wines are lean and lack charm. Even Comte Georges de Vogüé’s Musigny lacks mid-palate stuffing, although the finish is well sustained. Some producers de-acidified in 2008. An out-of-kilter 2008 Romanée Saint-Vivant from de L’Arlot shows the folly of this approach. Whole bunch was less trendy back then and those that used it reined in, but the result is often bitter and any benefit in reducing acidity was minimal. Most grand and top premier crus are overly evolved, severe, and sometimes quite unpleasant. Often the finish is dry and short. I am afraid that 17 years on you’ve missed the boat, were it ever worth catching.
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However there are notable exceptions, including Clos Vougeot from Méo-Camuzet. Although the acidity was razor sharp and the tannins rather rough when the cork was pulled, it mellowed and improved after six hours. A few 2008s may benefit from decanting or at least persevere beyond the first glass. Cyprien Arlaud finds the middle third of the bottle is invariably best. We tasted from top and middle of several bottles and I can’t argue. Among Domaine Arlaud’s 2008s, I enjoyed the tertiary Clos St-Denis, which is strict and refined with a precise and mineral finish.
From Nuits-St-Georges, Thibault Liger-Belair’s slim, pure, long, and linear Les St-Georges was among the best 2008s I tasted. It was made just after the birth of his daughter (“I made the wine with joy and changed my winemaking,” he says). This was before infusion became a byword for good winemaking in Burgundy. I’m sure many producers would make a better job of 2008 were they to make it now, although some have long since employed a restrained approach. Domaine Rossignol-Trapet is a case in point. Latricières 2008 is finely textured and vibrantly fresh, while Chambertin, picked on October 30, is earthy yet floral with surprising density and power for 2008 and shows no sign of fading. If you’re exceptionally fortunate you may be surprised by 2008.
2013: At their peak
However, 2013 is a different story on the Côte de Nuits and much closer in style to 2024. (Sadly not for the Côte de Beaune which suffered with hail from 2012 to 2014). From barrel, I recall 2013’s vivid red fruit, all pomegranate and cranberry, the crisp acidity and crunchy tannin. Not a top drawer vintage, but pleasing wines which were lightish in body, alcohol, and density. They can be more or less concentrated than 2024, but almost always more. (Incidentally 2008, 2013, and 2024 all needed chaptalizing). The acidity and tannins are greater in 2013 than 2024, albeit producers waited a long time for phenolic maturity. In common with the 2024s judicious use of whole bunch added complexity, while ameliorating the acidity.
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Once bottled, the top premier and grand cru 2013s were austere and took a surprisingly long time to come around, while 2023 is instantly more forthcoming. 2013 always had greater ripeness and capacity for aging than 2008, although neither 2013 nor 2024 have the density or super-clean fruit to make them long-term keepers.
Twelve years on most 2013s are at their peak. They may well plateau for a while since they are fresh enough, quite fruity, and the majority show no fragility, but there is nothing to be gained by leaving them—so drink and enjoy.
My favorites included an uncharacteristically light-bodied, but silky-textured Clos Vougeot from Domaine d’Eugénie and a yummy Nuits-St-Georges Pruliers showing roasted chestnut sweetness from David Duband made with 75% whole cluster, which David feels both lowered the acidity and added body. He used 90% for 2013 Charmes-Chambertin which combines succulence, generosity, freshness, and persistence.
Domaine Arlaud’s Charmes-Chambertin is lighter and so charming with its soft tannins. “With twenty-five years working organically and plowing using a horse the vineyards have greater potential now,” observes Cyprien. This is true for so many who moved to a more sensitive approach in the vineyards almost a generation ago.
Domaine Trapet’s linear, focused, and precise Chambertin sings with sweet red fruit. Pure, silky, and persistent, but it was rather fragile … and came directly from the producer’s cellar.
From Rossignol-Trapet, the 2013 Chapelle-Chambertin has tension and salinity to finish, sweet fruit, and enticing tertiary aromas. Some of these 2013s definitely have more body, concentration, and sweetness than the 2024 vintage, which I can’t envisage aging so well.
The 2013 grands crus were pretty consistent in quality and style, while some premiers crus were a little lean and dry, but not Bruno Clair’s Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetiers, which is juicy with red fruit. It has a surprisingly plump mid-palate with rich, satin-smooth texture and a persistent finish scented with roasted chestnuts and coffee. Lovely. Nor indeed Vosne-Romanée Clos des Réas from Michel Gros. Super-smooth, it was squidgy with red fruit for which his concentrator must be partially responsible. This surprisingly youthful wine was among the few 2013s with potential to evolve. Another is a tangy and aromatic Bonnes-Mares from de Vogüé—linear with cool depths and precise edges. Dark chocolate and mint carry the substantial finish. A half-bottle to boot!
2014: An unexpected pleasure
Finally a quick word on the 2014s. A few producers, among them Géraldine Godot, compare 2024 with 2014. I was sceptical. 2014 is a great white vintage, but not a charmer for red on either Côte. However Geraldine is familiar with 2014 since she shared this handover vintage at de l’Arlot with Jacques Devauges. As it happened, Christian Seely, MD of AXA Millésimes’ wine division, had co-ordinated a visit with mine in October offering the perfect opportunity to taste a few vintages of Romanée-St-Vivant together. We compared 2024, 2008, 2013, and 2014. The 2014 is light and lucid, leafy and floral, and, surprisingly, rather finely textured. I preferred it to 2008 and 2013 and it was the most comparable with 2024. Geraldine knows her wine. An unexpected pleasure all round.
